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Send a photo of each window and the product box
Tell us how many windows, what you bought, and the wall type if you know it. We reply with a firm price for the installation and anything we would change before you open the packaging.
How to measure before you order
Most of the problems we see on install day started with a measurement on the order form. These steps help the blind arrive the right size.
Use a steel tape, not a sewing tape
Fabric tapes stretch. Measure to the nearest eighth of an inch and write the numbers down window by window, with the room name next to each.
Inside mount: measure three widths
Measure the width at the top, middle and bottom of the frame and order to the smallest. Most makers take a small deduction off that for clearance, so do not subtract it yourself unless the order form says to.
Inside mount: measure three heights and the depth
Heights at left, centre and right, plus the depth of the frame. Check the depth against the minimum listed for the headrail you picked.
Outside mount: add overlap
Add a few inches to each side and above the opening so light does not leak around the edges, and check that nothing blocks the brackets, such as a door frame or a light switch.
Look for obstructions
Casement cranks, alarm sensors on the frame, and window handles all decide whether an inside mount will open and close cleanly.
Fixing curtain rods into studs and anchors
Lined blackout drapes on a long rod pull down and outward every time someone opens them. A bracket held into bare drywall by the screws from the box will work loose over time. We find the header or a stud above the window wherever we can, and where we can't, we use an anchor rated for the load and the wall: toggle-style anchors for drywall, sleeve anchors for plaster and masonry anchors for concrete.
Rods wider than about five feet need a centre support so they do not bow in the middle. We also set the rod height and width with you before drilling. Hanging the rod higher than the frame and wider than the opening makes a window look larger and lets the curtains stack off the glass, but it means more holes in the wall, so we mark it in pencil first and you decide.
Condo walls in newer buildings are often concrete or steel stud, which changes the hardware and the drill. Tell us the building when you book and we will bring the right bits and fixings for it.
What we install
Roller and solar shades
Inside or outside mount, cordless or chain, including dual shades with a sheer and a blackout layer on one bracket.
Horizontal and vertical blinds
Wood, faux wood and aluminium horizontals, and vertical blinds for patio doors, with the hold-down brackets fitted so they do not swing.
Curtain rods and tracks
Single and double rods, bay window rods with connectors, and ceiling-mounted tracks for floor-to-ceiling drapes.
Motorized and smart shades
Battery or plug-in motors mounted, paired to the remote or hub, and set with top and bottom limits so they stop where you want.
Motorized and smart blinds
Motorized shades are installed like any other blind, then set up. Each motor needs its upper and lower limits set, and each shade needs pairing to a remote, a wall switch or a hub app. If you want the shades in scenes, such as all bedroom shades down at sunset, that is part of a smart home set-up and we can do it in the same visit.
Battery-powered motors are the simplest: no wiring, a recharge every few months. Shades that run on household power need an outlet or a dedicated power supply near the window. If a hardwired motor needs a new circuit run from the panel, that part is an electrician's job, and we will say so before you book.
Before we arrive
- 1
Leave the blinds boxed
Keep each blind in its box with its label. Brackets and screws are often packed per window, and mixed-up hardware costs time on site.
- 2
Clear the sills and the floor
Move plants, frames and furniture about three feet back from each window so the ladder can sit square.
- 3
Know what you want where
Rod height, which side the chain or wand goes, and which way the louvres tilt. We will ask, but deciding ahead keeps the visit short.
Your questions, answered
Before you book
How much does blind installation cost in the GTA?
Installation is priced by the job, because a single roller shade and a house of shutters are very different visits. Send the number of windows, what you bought and a photo or two, and we will give you a firm price.
Do you sell blinds?
We install blinds and curtains you have already bought, whether from a big-box store, a custom maker or online. If you have not ordered yet, send photos of the windows and we will tell you whether inside or outside mount suits each one.
Can you hang curtain rods on drywall without a stud?
Yes, with the right anchor. We look for a stud or the window header first. Where there isn't one, we use an anchor rated for drywall and the weight of the drapes, and add a centre support on wide rods.
My blind arrived too small or too big. Can you fix it?
An inside-mount blind that is slightly narrow can often be outside mounted instead. One that is too wide for the frame usually needs to go back to the maker or be cut down by them. Send a photo and the measurements and we will tell you the options.
Can you install blinds on a concrete condo wall?
Yes. Concrete needs a hammer drill and masonry anchors, and some buildings have rules about drilling hours. Tell us the building and we will bring the right tools.
Do you install motorized blinds?
Yes. We mount them, set the limits, and pair them to the remote or app. If you want them in automations with lights or other devices, we can set that up on the same visit.
Can you take down old blinds and patch the holes?
We can remove old blinds and curtain hardware and fill the screw holes. Painting over the patches is a separate handyman job; mention it and we will include it on the quote.